There are some basic rules to follow for EDF success [after all, we all know somebody with a tale of woe when it comes to EDF!]

1 - Keep it Light

2 - Keep it LIGHT!

3 - Keep it simple, experimentation with power unit's is not for the beginner, there are many factors likely to cause frustration and worse, initially, go with recommended power trains. Choose your model carefully, think about your flying field before you buy, small foam jet's are often either good for tarmac or good for grass [belly-land], but rarely good for both!

4 - KEEP IT LIGHT! The worse thing you can do is to stick a big battery in it for duration, keep to the smallest, lightest pack recommended, and set the model up properly, with good power, and you will find that with the extra speed comes duration as you throttle back more, not to mention the model flying as intended.....like a jet!

5 - Always balance the fan impeller, and install the motor/fan with care, making sure that the impeller has an equal gap round the shroud, on 20mm & 28mm in-runner motors, always, always fit a heat sink, on out-runners, if possible, a heli style fan. If the fan is designed to take an intake ring, don't leave it out, you could easily loose 20% thrust.

6 - Don't just lob in the highest kv motor you can into a fan, the only likely result on 5-6 blade fans is huge current draw, and often not much gain in performance with cheap fans, not to mention very short flights, a possible exploding fan, and/or a burn't out ESC. Upgrades usually require a matched fan/motor that is proven.

7 - Speed controllers, choose one with plenty of head-room in terms of current draw, if you are going to use a 4s [14.8v] set up....make sure the ESC will take it! Many small ones are only rated for 3s [11.1v]. Also, many models require high torque and/or 4 and above servo's these days, so only fit an ESC with a "switchable" BEC, or use an OPTO ESC linked to a UBEC, these unit's are rated for 3-4A.

8 - If you are flying on 35mghz, do not use "parkflyer" receivers! Also, due to the design of EDF's, long ESC/Servo leads [usually running alongside long battery/ESC leads] may require ferrite rings to reduce signal noise. 2.4ghz is the  ultimate solution for EDF flyers.

9 - Use the best servo's you can afford! MG are preferable in vulnerable area's [common on belly-landing types are aileron servo's], but always bear in mind weight.

10 - C of G is critical on EDF, many have had an initial flight of just a few seconds by moving centre of gravity well forward like many do for a maiden flight with a prop model. Centre of gravity must be as near [within a few mm] as possible to the recommended figure, and once in flight, the model should be trimmed for a very slightly nose-down attitude [or the motor will not get "on step" properly, resulting in a lower than desired speed].

11 - Hand launching, if you have not done this before, get a helper to do it for you, couple of steps into the wind and lob, with a slight nose up attitude, not at 45 degrees! Be prepared for the model to "sink" a little before the motor gets on step, if trimmed right, it should start to climb out, but have your thumb ready for a SLIGHT amount of up-elevator.

12 - Landing, with belly landings, to prevent damage, a slight nose up attitude is preferable, rather than a "flat" landing, or obviously worse, nose-down! [one of the reasons that C of G is so critical, jet's are designed to fly fast, once the power is exhausted, you may find there is not enough elevator at low speed to lift the nose for landing]. When setting up your radio, bear in mind the model will require small control surface movements at high speed, and large movements at low speed [landing], so, depending on preference, either set low and high rates, or my personal preference is standard rates with a lot [as much as 70% depending on the model] of exponential.

Scott Coppello